Shoe



Patented Aug. 18, l1942 UNITED PATENT" GFFIC'E .SHOE Charles Tweedie, Jefferson City, MQ. Applicatign February 2,7, 1941, Serial No. 380,845 .5 Claims (Cl. Sli- 515) This application is a continuation in part of my copending application `Serial No. 239,222 iiled November` 7, 1938, for patent for Shoes, now Patent No. 2,240,816, grantedMay .6, 19.41.

This invention relates to the manufactureof shoes of the pump type having uppers made of material commercially known as "Stretchable or Elasticized shoe material comprising an vvouter layer of real or imitation leather or fabric and an inner layer of real or synthetic rubber fabric, commercially known as Lastex, that is adhersively united to the unfinished side of said outer layer. With such material, the desired elasticity is obtained by .preshrinking the outer or inner layer or by applying the inner layer to the .outer layer in a stretched condition.

In such pump-type shoes, it is customary to omit the vamp and quarter linings because they tend to detract from or interfere with the `foot conforming qualities of the fStretchable or Elasticized upper material. The omission of such linings necessitates use of a binding for the support, :protection and ornamentation of the exposed free edges of the upper, particularly the edge which forms the foot openingrof the shoe. In some cases this binding consists of a thin and narrow lasteX tape er webbing stitched to theexposed edge of the upper and additional elastic webbing for rendering the edge more durable. A practical objection to this method of binding is the ,cost thereof and the stiffness imparted to the upper around said binding.

Another common method is to skive the Yefrposed edge of the upper and to apply a rubber cement thereto, fold the skived margin upon the body of the upper, ,press the fold and then apply elastic webbing to said folded margin and to said body by means of zigzag stitching. A practical objection to this manner of vbinding the edge of the upper is that it lacks the desired elasticity, and the skiving weakens the material and is liable t cause it to crack and tear under service conditions. Furthermore, since the elastic webbing is attached to the upper by zigzag stitching, with said webbing overlapping the folded margin of the upper, portions of the edges of the webbing are not stitched, thus causing the exposed nished edges of the upper to present an unsightly or puckered appearance.

The ypresent invention has for its principal objects to provide a shoe upper of the above type with an edge binding that will maintain its shape and elasticity, that will prevent puckering, that will present a well nished and ornamental appearance, and that will be strong :and durable end eeenemieal .to produce.- T-he invention 00n- Sists in the shoe hereinafter described and claimed..

I the aeeomnenyins drawing, which forms neri ef thissneeineeten end wherein like symbols refer to like parte, Wherever they occur,

Fia l ,is a perspective View 0f a pump-type snee having en upper embodying my inventiony Fig. 2 is ian enlarged fragmentary section on the .line 2.-.-2 in Fia 1 Fia .3 .is fragmentary iaee View, Showing the webbing discese@ abutting rennen to the marginal edge of the upper material and Secured thereto by of zigzag Siitehinsyand the cement applied to said margin and webbing,

`ifie.- i is a crees-section en .the line 4-4 in Figf3. i

:Figa 5 and 6 are Views Similar ie Pies 3 end 4, respectively, ehewing 4.the margin and the Wehhn ine attached there@ i.eliesi over and `cemented fietwise te the bedr .ef the npner and the webbing f1 8 Yviews .similar ie Fiss. 5 eind 6, reen eiireiy., Showing e VInedined construction Whe n the .line .gf zigzag .Stitching that secures the webbing to the :body portion of the upper also secures the folded over marginal portion there@ 1.11 me fcmipanypg Qiwng my invention iS .einhedie e numn-iyne'shee Whose up??? mpzs ,a nihil? 11.153.11.051? Which iS 'made of the commercially known prefabricated enenhene or nnsaenee materiel heren- 'beftlff SIESQFDQQ Whh @I fail dgee O @.155- ticity and includes a relatively inelastic outer layer A adhesively or otherwise permanently united to an elastic inner or backing layer B. According to the present invention, the upper has its marginal portion folded inwardly and downwardly, as iat I, around the foot opening, and a strip of elastic webbing 2 extends along the edge of said folded margin and is secured edgewise thereto preferably by means of zigzag stitching 3. The elastic webbing 2 is secured flatwise Lto the main body portion ofthe upper below the folded over margin I thereof preferably by a line of zigzag stitching 5, which passes through the 4upper and is exposed on the outer face thereof to constitute an ornamentation around the foot opening. Both the elastic webbing 2 and the folded over margin l of the upper are preferably secured to the body portion thereof by latex or other suitable cement 4. Instead of locating the zigzag stitching 5 entirely below the folded over margin l of the upper, said stitching may be applied, as indicated at a in Figs. 7 and 8, so as to pass through the edge of said folded margin as well as the elastic webbing.

In the process of manufacture, the elastic webbing 2 is first secured edgewise to the margin of the upper by means of the zigzag stitching 3. The latex cement 4 is then applied to the inner or unfinished side of the margin of the upper and the corresponding side of the webbing and said margin with said webbing attached thereto is then folded over flatwise upon the inner surface of the upper and pressed thereagainst, after which said webbing is further secured to the inner face of the upper by means of the zigzag stitching 5 or 5a which passes through the upper and forms an ornamental line of stitching along the outer face thereof.

The hereinbefore described arrangement provides a well finished, ornamental and durable edge along the exposed edge of the upper without appreciably reducing the elasticity of the upper along the said edge and it also maintains its shape and elasticity under service conditions. The hereinbefore described process of finishing the edge of the upper is simple and inexpensive compared with processes hereinbefore employed for finishing the exposed edges of Stretchable or Elasticized uppers.

While the hereinbefore described invention is particularly applicable to shoe material of the kind described, it is also applicable to stretchable leathers for shoe uppers that are fabricated without either vamp or quarter linings.

What I claim is:

l. A shoe of the pump type comprising an upper having an opening therein, a portion at least of said upper being made of stretchable material having an inwardly foldedY over marginal portion of full thickness, the line of folding defining at least a portion of said opening, and a strip of elastic material secured to said marginal portion in edgewise abutting relation to the edge of said folded over marginal portion of said stretchable material and secured ilatwise to said stretchable material downwardly beyond said edge of said folded over marginal portion.

2. A shoe of the pump type comprising an upper having an opening therein, a portion at least of said upper being made of prefabricated stretchable material including a relatively inelastic outer layer and an elastic backing layer permanently united to the inner face of said outer layer, said stretchable material having a marginal portion of full thickness that is folded over inwardly upon and adhesively secured fiatwise to the inner face of said material whereby the line of folding defines at least a portion of said opening, and a strip of elastic webbing stitched edgewise to the edge of said folded over marginal portion and secured flatwise to said inner face of said material downwardly beyond said edge.

3. A shoe of the pump type comprising an upper having a foot opening therein, a portion at least of said upper being made of stretchable material, said stretchable material having a marginal portion of full thickness that is folded over inwardly upon and is adhesively secured atwise to the inner face thereof whereby the line of folding defines at least a portion of said foot opening, and a strip of elastic material secured edgewise to said edge of said folded over marginal portion in the plane thereof and secured flatwise to said inner face of said stretchable material downwardly beyond said edge of said folded over marginal portion.

4. A shoe of the pump type comprising a main upper member having a fair degree of elasticity and a supplemental elastic webbing secured to the top edge of said main member in edgewise alinement therewith and constituting an extension thereof, the marginal portion of said main member being of full thickness and said marginal portion together with the webbing being folded back as a unit on a line below said webbing whereby the line of folding outlines the foot opening and the webbing after folding being entirely below the line of folding and adhered flatwise to said main member whereby the entire thickness of the upper in the region next to the foot opening consists of only two plies of the material of the main member and whereby also a saving of such material is effected.

5. A shoe of the pump type comprising an upper having a foot opening therein, a portion at least of said upper being composed of stretchable material having an inwardly folded over marginal portion provided with a raw edge and the line of folding defining at least a portion of said foot opening, a separate strip of narrow elastic webbing extending longitudinally of and secured in mere edgewise abutting relation to the raw edge of said folded over marginal portion and forming a flush continuation thereof, and means for securing said elastic webbing flatwise to said stretchable material downwardly beyond said raw edge of said folded over marginal portion.

CHARLES TWEEDIE. 

